1. Litter box training

Ferrets are not drawn to use their litter-boxes like cats, so patience and treats work best to insure a potty trained fuzzy in your home. Here’s how to do it:

1. Begin by training in a smaller space, such as your ferrets cage.

2. As with kittens, look for signs that your ferret is ready to go (such as spinning or backing into a corner) then placing them in the litter pan.

3. After each successful potty session, reward them with a treat immdediately.

4. When you feel comfortable that your ferret has the proper manners, begin placing litter-boxes throughout the areas (outside of the cage) they are allowed.

5. If you are still having accidents, especially in a cage, try placing food or ferret bedding in the offending area. If this area smells more like their kitchen or bedroom, your ferret will be less likely to continue the unwanted relief in that area.

6. Remember, even a potty-trained ferret can make mistakes. Be sure to clean these areas thoroughly, removing any scent with a cleaner such as Nature’s Miracle for Ferrets which will remove any ferret scent, keeping these areas free of the potty smell which could lead to further accidents.

2. Nip-training
Most new (generally younger) ferrets will nip people, including you. It is important to know, that in most cases your ferret is not purposely trying to hurt you. A ferret’s skin is extremely tough and you’ll notice if you have more than one ferret that they play rough with each other. Should your ferret nip new or old you’ll have to begin nip-training immediately. Anyone who tells you to nip-train your ferret by flicking his nose or by giving him a light smack is grossly mistaken.

Instead, use these methods accordingly:

• Spray them with a water bottle

• Blow lightly on their face

• Make a loud, high-pitched “YIP!” sound (mimicking a ferrets own pain sound)

• Cover their face

• Use bitter apple spray on your hands or other prone areas

• Give them a “time-out” in their cage
It is important to be patient when training. Also, be sure to never place your ferret down if you are nipped. This will only help the ferret associate biting with freedom, which could lead to more problems down the road.

3. Dig-training

Ferrets love to dig. You can try using the methods listed under nip-training. Below, we have listed a few more tips for problems you may encounter.

1. Digging in the couch or bed. Couches or beds can be havens for your ferret. Unfortunately, many problems can occur due to digging in these items. Try placing a solid bottom on your couch or box spring so that your ferret cannot get into their inner workings. You could try removing the legs of your couch to further discourage this behavior. Remember, sometimes it’s best to have a safe and happy ferret, so limiting their access to areas with these potential problems/hazards in general may be necessary if the problem persists.

2. Digging in food or water. Should your ferret love to splash about his water, food or both, try using water bottles which limit the amount of water that your ferret has access to at one time. The same principal can be applied to their food. A ferret is less likely to throw about their only meal, so try limiting the amount of food in bowls should your fuzzy show an interest in food digging.

3. Digging in the litter. Litter digging can more than just distasteful. Some ferrets have been known to eat litter. Doing so may causes harmful blockages. If you discover your ferret does this, try changing only a little bit of your ferrets litter, leaving some dirty litter behind. Ferrets are less likely to dig in dirty litter.

4. Digging in your plants. Most importantly, many household plants are toxic to ferrets. If you are going to keep plants in your home, it’s best to keep them in rooms that are off limits to ferrets. If this is unavoidable, we recommend using bitter apple to treat the area surrounding each plant (pot, soil, table it is on, etc.). However, being the rascals they are, ferrets may soon figure out what areas of the plant can still be dug or chewed on because you cannot treat the whole thing, which is why we recommend keeping ferrets away from plants as a rule.

Remember, patience and persistence will be the most effective tools when training your ferret. Digging, as well as some other behaviors may be the result of boredom. Try changing your ferret’s surroundings (cage) often, as well as playing with them. Also, don’t leave your ferrets alone to wreak havoc, then return to scold them when left unsupervised. Ferrets are inquisitive, wonderful creatures. Be sure to reward this trait with plenty of games, toys, and of course; love…

Matthew Humphries - http://www.ferret.com

When scolding your dog for doing the toilet on the carpet remember that we were once young and did not use the proper toilet either. Your dog needs to be house trained, and this can be done in a few easy steps, but over a long period.

Dog house training may be one of the hardest training techniques as it is the one that requires the most attentiveness and work. You have to be able to read your dog’s body signals, as he cannot tell you when he needs the toilet. Many people make the mistake of assuming that their dog will bark when he needs the go, sometimes they are lucky to find a dog that will but believe me there are many out there who don’t and accidents are found all over the house!

Dog house training requires a few simple steps, but as I said but they are time consuming ones. Firstly I would recommend putting newspaper in front of the door, that way if you see him doing an accident in the house you can quickly life him there and he will realize that if he needs to go and your not there to let him he has to do it on paper.

The next thing you need to know when dog house training is most dogs when they need the toilet will start to get restless and stat sniffing around, this is when you pick them up and take them outside, when they are really young you should take him outside at least once every hour. When you take them outside you can say things like “do the toilet” or “do your business” or whatever command you want to use for this training session. Once they have done the toilet you must give them lots of affection outside straight away (of course it’s best to wait until they are done) They will soon come to realize that outside is the place to do the toilet and will after some time start asking to go out.

There are hundreds of books available on dog house training all of which use different techniques and routines. No dog is going to know straight away that outside is the place to do the toilet, they have to learn and you have to teach them (unless you don’t mind accidents all over the place) Oh and don’t forget to scoop!

For more information about training your dog, visit Dog Training

The Boxer is an amazing dog and is extremely playful, energetic and definitely a handful (in a good way of course). This breed of dog is extremely loyal and when a friendship is built it lasts forever. The boxer is unique and not for everyone, if you are a new owner of a boxer you have to be aware that they need a lot of attention and training. They are extremely intelligent dogs, which can work to your advantage when it comes to training, but then again can be very disadvantageous, as they know how to use their intelligence to get what they want.

Boxer dog training consists of training them up to become guard dogs; this is their main profession if you like. People who do not know boxers tend to assume that they are naturally aggressive when they are in fact the opposite and could not be more playful than any other dog! Because of their good stature and aggressive look, people are automatically assuming this dog could do more harm than good. If your boxer is not trained properly then he just might.

Because of their intelligence, Boxers can be very stubborn but when it comes to training a boxer, it can be very helpful. Owners must remember that there will be times when you ask him to do something and he’s going to look you in the face and basically tell you where to go, he knows he is supposed to do what you are telling him but he decides he can’t be bothered and doesn’t. The main thing you have to remember in these circumstances is to be patient. From as early as 6 weeks old you should start your boxer dog training as this will help him when he grows up, socialize him, play with him and teach him, but do it in an exciting way and he is more likely to listen.

The main aspect of training for a boxer is socialization. Boxers can be very friendly dogs but they need to be trained to become one. They need to get accustomed to other dogs and people. The best way to do this is training classes. That way your boxer will be trained alongside other dogs.

When your boxer reaches 13-16 weeks old it’s time for some serious boxer dog training, this is the stage where he is going to test for dominance, he will nip and try to show you that he is the more dominant one, mainly by not listening to you. You have to be a strong leader at this time; you must show him that bad behaviors will not be tolerated no matter what!

Boxers are genuinely a lovable family dog and would make a proud pet for anyone, they are dogs that prefer to sit on you lap for a cuddle than anything else. Train your boxer early with some serious boxer dog training and you can be assured you will have a stunning, loyal family friend!

Whether you have a boxer or different breed of dog, everything you need to know to train your dog properly is at Dog Training

Dogs are wonderful, loyal companions and an integral part of our families. Time flies, though, and in a few short years we start seeing changes in our faithful friends. There may be white hair around their muzzle, they may be less active and energetic, and they may be a little slow getting up. As a dog ages, his metabolism also slows, just like ours, and his health care and nutritional needs may change. Here is a look at how we can make life a little easier for our aging pets.

Exercise
Exercise is important even for older dogs. They need to keep their muscle tone and weight in control as they age, just like we do. Mature dogs may not have the stamina they once had and do better with frequent, brief walks or short swims. If your dog still likes being active, don’t forget to play his favorite games, like fetch or tug-o-war. Further, older dogs tend to urinate more often so they may need more frequent walks.

Get an Elevated Feeder
Elevated water and food dishes can be helpful. The height makes it more comfortable for dogs (not just older dogs, by the way) to eat and drink because it prevents strain on the neck and the feeding position is easier on their digestion.

A Comfortable Bed to Cushion Joints
Dogs often develop arthritis to some degree or another as they age. We can help them stay comfortable by providing them with a dog bed with firm orthopedic foam to support and cushion their bones and joints and help insulate them from the floor. There are many styles available, from traditional style dog beds to nests with orthopedic foam bases, to bolster beds and mats.

Give Him a Boost
A ramp to get up or down safely from high areas such as a car, or a step to give him a boost to his favorite chair or your bed (if you allow him on it) may make it easier on your dog’s aging joints. They’re especially handy for larger dogs that are too big or heavy to lift easily. They come in a variety of styles and prices.

Review Your Dog’s Nutritional Needs
As you dog gets older, his nutritional needs may change. Generally, senior dogs need to eat a balanced diet that is lower in calories, protein, and fat than the food they ate as youngsters. Mature dogs may experience constipation, so a diet high in fiber is recommended. If your dog is still active and healthy, you may be able to continue feeding him his regular food, but a lesser amount. You can add oat bran or wheat for extra fiber. There are also commercial senior dog foods available.

Also consider nutritional supplements. I have been giving my dog a supplement of glucosamine and chondroitin since she was a puppy to help keep her joints healthy. Hopefully this will help reduce the possibility/effects of arthritis as she gets older. Also, if you feel your dog is not getting his nutritional needs met through diet, there are number of good canine nutritional supplements available.

Pay Attention to Changes in Behavior
You may see signs in your dog like loss of appetite, weakness, irritability, changes in his gait, incontinence, or slowness in getting up. Typically, these are signs that your pet is getting older and will need extra care and attention. Talk to your vet about what you can do to help your pet as he ages, and have your vet perform a yearly geriatric exam so he can try to take care of any new health issues before they progress.

Love and Attention
Most of all, give your mature dog extra love and care. Our dogs give us years of affection, loyalty, and attention; don’t they deserve the very best care we can give them?

Yes, it’s cold outside, but don’t stop your dog’s agility training. Depending on where you live, there might be snow on the ground from November through March, but that’s no reason to give up your agility training. Bring your training indoors, right at your own home.

Get creative with your training locations. Do you have a hallway, basement, or garage? Then you have a place to train! Before it snows and your equipment is frozen to the ground, store some in your garage, shed, basement, or put a tarp over it. Bring in one piece of equipment at a time, and begin your indoor training.

We do a lot of indoor training with a Pause Table. In fact, we keep one in our living room for both obedience training and agility training all the time. The Pause Table is a great obstacle for developing your obedience behaviors and teaching agility directional commands

Don’t forget to work on your contacts. It’s easy by having a Contact Trainer indoors. A 3-Piece Contact Trainer offers you versatility; you have an A-frame side, the Pause Table, and a Dog-walk plank. Practicing your two feet on and two feet off is convenient and quick when you have indoor contacts, only a few minutes a day to steady your dog’s behavior.

Indoor jumping must be approached carefully. If you don’t have indoor matting, don’t jump. You don’t want your dog jumping on concrete or wood floors. But you can use the uprights or posts to practice your handling. Use your Sit-stay or Down-stay and practice your lines or dogs path with no jump bars.

Weaves can be practice indoors. Are you training with a weave-chute or straight line weaves? Five minutes a day of weave training through out the winter will have your dog weaving smoothly by springtime. You can practice weave entries and weave sends or weave recalls.

There is also a variety of mini agility equipment that can be purchased, and don’t require the same space as standard equipment. There are mini-teeters, mini-dog walks, and mini-A-frames. These are great obstacles for puppy training or indoor winter training.

So, during the cold winter months, don’t give up on your agility training. Whether you are starting a young pup, working a novice dog, or an experienced titled dog there is always something that you can do indoors with your agility training.

Brad Carlson is a Dog Trainer at Agility by Carlson. For more training details, visit our website at http://www.carlson-agility.com/