Pet owners always wish that their cats and dogs had that perfect sheen on their coats. And for many years, pet owners have given fatty acids to their dogs and cats to change a dull, dry coat into a more glossy one. Recent research has shown that fatty acids play important roles in other areas of skin and coat health.

The diet of cats and dogs differ in many respects. While dogs like us are omnivorous, cats are carnivorous. In spite of the difference in diets, it is a known fact that one of the necessary elements of a health promoting diet for us humans, for dogs, and for cats is fats. Fatty Acids are important for a wide array of cell structure components and for many chemical reactions in the body. They play a vital role in establishing a healthy lipid barrier in the skin which blocks irritants and infections. The bottom line is that without Fatty Acids in proper ratios, your pets are in trouble!

Cats and dogs can produce some of the fatty acids they need, but not all of them. The liver and other tissues can make many fatty acids that are required for the body’s chemical reactions to go on. In dogs, though, there is one that they cannot make themselves: Linoleic Acid (also called Omega6 Fatty Acid). In cats there are two essential fatty acids: Linoleic and Arachidonic Acids. The fatty acids that they cannot produce themselves must be obtained through their diet or supplements and are called essential fatty acids.

Proper diet can be a source of essential fatty acids but the fatty acids in foods are subject to degradation. These fatty acids are vulnerable to heat and overcooking can destroy them. Heat, either by processing or cooking, destroys Essential Fatty Acids creating free radicals as a result. Also, improper storage or a sub optimal amount of antioxidants in dry food may result in rancidity and a subsequent deficiency in fatty acids.

Essential Fatty Acids supplement for dogs and cats replenishes the essential fatty acids that are easily destroyed by normal processing of commercial pet food. Hair coats, which are dull, brittle, and dry, respond favorably to supplementation with essential fatty acids. Supplementing your pet’s diet with essential fatty acids will produce the following visible results in just a few weeks:

• Glossy and softer coat
• Reduced fleas
• Improved tolerance to fleabites and other allergens
• Less hair shedding
• Healthier and smooth skin

Give your pet, the glossy coat that it deserves and you only dreamt of by supplementing its diet with Essential Fatty Acids. Your pet deserves the best!

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Looking for an easy, fun way to train your dog? Clicker training is the answer. Clicker training uses a small device, that when pressed makes a clicking sound. This click signifies to the dog, job well done. The click is usually followed up immediately with a treat.

The clicker training method doesn’t use punishment, or violence to teach the dog obedience. Clicker Training is a totally positive experience for the dog. The click provides the dog with confidence that he or she is performing the required task correctly, and the follow-up treat rewards him or her to encourage that required behavior.

Clicker Training can be used to train almost any command you can think. For example, to teach a dog to sit, you might move the treat over her head, and her head will move up forcing her butt down. When her butt hits the floor, you can click and treat. Repeat the process several times adding the “Sit” command. The dog has now been trained to sit, using the clicker training method. This is a very basic example, but this method can be applied to any aspect of the dogs training. Many experts agree clicker training is the most gentle, safest way to train a dog.

Brian Thibault is a dog training hobbiest, who specializes in clicker training. To find out more about clicker training visit, http://www.helpthedog.com.

The Irish Wolfhound is known as the King of Dogs. It’s stately grace and long easy loping strides are deceiving, for it has sufficient strength and power to hunt and kill a wolf. The jaws of the dog are large and punishing, the massive shoulders and rear should have good musculature, a dog that is in condition is an impressive sight.

Illustrations portraying the ancient Irish Wolfhound have been found in Greece and Cyprus, where the continental Celts had their home. It is said that they took their dogs with them when they went to Ireland around 1500 B.C. They were as prized as valuable possessions. It is said that King John gave a gift of an Irish wolfhound to the Prince of Wales in the thirteenth century. This dog–Gelert–was immortalized in the poem by William Robert Spencer. Hence the phrase: “King of Dogs and Dog of Kings”, which is a popular slogan of the Irish Wolfhound fancier. These dogs were used by the Irish to hunt wolves, wild boar and deer. It is a historical fact that for over 100 years Ireland has had no wild wolves and this has been attributed to the hunting skill of the Irish Wolfhound.

This is a giant breed and has certain problems associated with its growth and development. They grow very fast and can do damage to their young bones during these growth periods. This same sort of thing can happen to a Newfoundland or a Saint Bernard or any of the Giant breeds which go through accelerated growth spurts. Care must be taken that they are not allowed to play too hard as puppies with dogs that are larger, body slams by the “big boys” can cause serious damage. They are not generally known as a long lived breed, but if care is taken during their rearing they can give many happy years to their owner.

The Irish Wolfhound has a wiry stiff coat and a bearded face with great long jaws . The ears are small, not hanging close to the face as in many hounds. The body should be strong and deep of chest. The dogs are quite tall, with a minimum height of 31 inches for a male and 28 for a female. The dog is longer in the back but the length should come from the rib cage and not the loin. The impression when looking at the dog in profile is one of tremendous “depth” to the body. The front shoulders should have a good “layback” and the rear legs be well angulated, as this will allow for greater freedom of movement and length of stride.

The character of the Irish wolfhound should be stable and docile, this is far too large a dog to allow for any poor temperament. A good disposition is typical of this “gentle giant” and seldom will one find an Irish Wolfhound that is not a perfect gentleman.

Michael Russell

Your Independent guide to Dogs

Dogs and Cats. Eternal enemies, right? Through proper dog home obedience training you can teach your animals to live together.

The first mistake that most pet owners make when introducing their pet dogs and cats is to allow them to make their own introductions. This is a mistake! As I stated above, these two species are eternal enemies. You can’t just set one down near the other and expect great results. (Ok, I know that can happen and does happen, but my job here is to teach you about dog home obedience training. My version of training calls for prevention with dogs and cats rather than creating a problem and then being forced to fix it. As Mom used to say, an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure.) There is a good deal of prevention that should be used before allowing your dogs and cats to co-exist.

Whether you are introducing a new cat to a home with a dog or vice versa I want you to start out the same way. Start out by using your trusty dog crate. Put your dog in the crate and allow the cat to be in the same room. There are several possible outcomes to this action :
1. Your dog shows complete indifference. This is ideal. If your dog behaves like this you will have a quick transition.
2. Your dog shows fear. This is not ideal but it will make the transition easier than some other outcomes.
3. Your dog shows nervousness and anxiety. He whines, he paces in the crate, paws at the door of the crate, etc. This behavior tells you that he wants out. There is something about that cat that is exciting and he wants to know what it is.
4. Your dog shows overt aggression. He barks, claws at the door of the crate, and he knows exactly what he wants to do with that cat. This is going to be the toughest dog to train, but it can be done.

For the first few days don’t let your dogs and cats near each other. Keep the dog in the crate. This doesn’t mean you need to keep him in the crate 24/7. When you want him out of the crate just make sure that your cat is shut off in another bedroom to avoid contact. What you hope to accomplish with this action is to train your dog to be indifferent to the cat. You want your dog to view the cat as ‘background noise’. The cat is inconsequential, the cat doesn’t matter, there is nothing interesting or exciting about the cat. In other words, your dog is safely tucked away in the crate and casually observes the cat move around the house. For categories 1 and 2 this will be simple. It will take no more than a day or two for your dog to think of your cat as just another ‘thing’ in the house. Categories 3 and 4 will take more training and time.

For categories 3 and 4 you need to attach a negative association to showing cat aggression. To do this, get a spray bottle. Fill the bottle with either plain water, water mixed with lemon juice, or for very stubborn dogs, water with vinegar. At this point, your dog is still tucked away safely in the crate. The next part of training will be conducted while you are sitting near the crate, ready for action. The instant your dog shows aggression (barks at the cat, claws at the door, whines in frustration, etc.) toward the cat spray him in the face with your spray bottle. Every time he shows aggression spray him with the bottle. When he isn’t showing aggression give him soft praise, “Good boy”.

If you are consistent with this exercise you will soon notice that your dog will show less and less aggression while in the crate, it just isn’t worth the squirt in the face for him. You are on your way to getting your dogs and cats to co-exist.

When your feel comfortable that your dog is indifferent to the cat move on to the next step. As I said, for categories 1 and 2 this is probably one or two days after beginning the crate training. For categories 3 and 4 get your dog to the point where he is indifferent and maintains that attitude for several days if not a week.

The next step is to get your dog out of the crate and get those dogs and cats together at last! You are going to move slowly, though. Put your dog training collar and leash on your dog and make sure that he is always wearing it around the house. Keep your dog near you and allow your cat to be in the room. If your dog makes any move whatsoever to chase the cat, bark at the cat, or perform any of the stereotypical behaviors that dogs and cats do, give him a very strong correction with the leash. You want this leash correction to be a very memorable one so it must be very strong. You want to form a very negative association toward cat aggression.

Be consistent with this training. If you do this properly you will notice that your dog has less and less of a desire to chase after or bark at the cat. As you notice your dog changing his behavior give him more and more freedom by allowing him to be closer to the cat and further away from you. Eventually you will phase out the use of the dog training collar and leash.

Even some of the hardest to train dogs will respond to the above method. There exist, however, certain dogs that have such strong prey drive that only drastic measures will cure them of their desire to chase and kill cats. For these dogs I employ an electric dog training collar.

Read the instruction manual on proper fitting for your electric dog training collar. With a stubborn dog that needs an electric collar the method is simple. With the collar on his neck and turned on to a high level of stimulus you are going to correct your dog every time he even looks at the cat. As your dog even sneaks a glance at your cat press the button to deliver the correction. Don’t say ‘no’, don’t react in any way, just correct him for looking at the cat. Do this as many times as it takes. Let’s examine this from your dog’s point of view. He wants to get to the cat, wants to chase, wants to kill. But the very act of looking at the cat causes him pain. You don’t tell him anything so he doesn’t associate the correction with you. He soon will learn to believe that the cat is ‘evil’ and he had better not even look at it because it the act of looking causes pain.

As with all training, you must be very consistent. Your dog must never have a successful chance to even chase or want to chase the cat. Be consistent, though, and soon your dogs and cats will be able to co-exist.

Author Tyler Brown is a renowned dog trainer whose training adventures and clients have taken him to 18 states and 5 countries to teach others how to properly train their dogs. Go to dogbehavioronline.com for more dog training articles, advice, tips, and answers from a professional dog trainer.

Some people think training Pit Bull puppies is hard. I beg to differ. Training any puppy can be hard or easy. How you approach your training and handling of the puppy will make a world of difference.

Training Tip #1 - Always keep an eye on your puppy. If you supervise your puppy he or she can’t use the bathroom in the house, they can’t chew things up, and you can be there to take them out when they need to go.

If you can not supervise your puppy investing in a quality dog kennel is suggested.

Training Tip #2 - Let your puppy drag a leash. Buy a 5-6 foot nylon web leash and let your puppy drag it around. This way you can stand on the leash to keep your puppy around you. Tether the puppy to a chair or door so you can supervise them while you are busy.

Training Tip #3 - Handle them. Touch their paws, rub their ears, check their teeth, pick them up and check their belly, touch their hind end. These will get them used to being examined by the vet, handled by the groomer, by children and adults.

Training Tip #4 - Put them on a feeding schedule. A good friend of mine always says, “What goes in on a schedule, comes out on a schedule.” By putting your puppy on a feeding schedule he or she will go to the bathroom on a schedule making house training much easier for you.

Feeding schedules also help prevent food bowl aggression and obesity.

Training Tip #4 - Socialize your puppy. Early socialization is critical for proper development of your puppy. If you do not get them out in the world they will never learn how to behave in the world.

My rule of thumb is to take them every I possibly can between 8-14 weeks and I continue this socialization until maturity.

For younger pups consult your vet for safety precautions. Usually you can start socializing your pups with other dogs after they have started their second set of shots. Again, check with your vet before you do this.

Training Tip #5 - Use motivation to teach basic things like sit, down and roll over. Teaching your puppy to sit, lie down and roll over are great ways to begin formal obedience training with your puppy.

Rolling over and laying down are also submissive positions that will help your pup learn how to remain calm and see you as the leader as they mature.

With the use of positive reinforcement and motivational techniques you can work with almost any age and see results.

Training Tip #6 - Use hand signals. Along with verbal cues you want to use hand signals. This will help your puppy understand what you want them to do. Dogs are masters at reading body language. It makes sense to use it early on to start teaching your puppy behaviors.

Training Tip #7 - Avoid rolling your puppy on their back or practicing “alpha rolls.” One popular concept today is leadership. Many people mistake leadership with dominance. Dominance and leadership or not the same thing and practicing dominant handling techniques like the Alpha Roll is not in you or your pups best interest.

Instead, lay them on their side and teach them to relax on cue. This will help you in the long run establish yourself as the leader and teach them how to remain calm under stressful situations like the vets office, the groomer, and in situations that cause your puppy stress.

In Conclusion
Socialize your puppy as often as you can and start to touch them alot to help with handling and stressful situations they are going to encounter on a daily basis.

By taking the time to properly work with your puppy you will save yourself a lot of frustration as they grow older.

Jason Mann is a professional canine instructor. He operates PitBullLovers.com and Top Dog K9 Training Solutions based in Lexington, KY.